DAY 2 in SUBA, TUESDAY, MARCH 27, 2007

SULU
PROVINCE
Once a sultanate state that existed for 5 centuries (1450 to 1915), Sulu was the only native power that survived the onslaught of Spanish colonialism. Its sultan gave up his power to American colonial rule (late 1890s), and later Sulu became part of the Philippines republic in 1946,

The Sulu province and archipelago stretches south toward Malaysia and consists of more than 157 islands and islets. It has 18 municipalities, 10 of which are on the main island of Jolo; the other 8 are other islands in the province. About a third of the region's population is composed of ethnic people.

These groups, usually erroneously classified under the general heading of Muslims, are actually distinct from each other in culture. The three dominant cultural groups are 85% Tausugs, 8% Sama and 3% Badjao.

Like other areas in the AARM, Sulu is a conflict area and one of the poorest provinces in the Philippines.

Consuelo Foudation and its non-profit partners in Sulu have targeted the people of this region, especially the Badjaos, who are the most marginalized, for assistance. Often referred to as the Philippine "sea gypsies", the Badjaos, until recently, spent their lives on their small boats which frequented the waters surrounding the numerous islands of the Sulu Archipelago. There are approximately 10,000 families in the area. The primary means of livelihood is fishing; many now engage in seaweed farming.

Lantaka Hotel, Zamboanga City 4am wake up call. Breakfast at 5am.

See the shell sellers below my balcony. The area is known for its beautiful and somewhat rare shells.

ZAMBOANGO FACTS:
Calling itself Asia's Latin City, this coastal town boasts a multi-cultural heritage -- Malay, Spanish and American. Spain's three-century rule left its mark here more than any other area of the Philippine archipelago. It's native language is its own -- Chabacano, a mix of Spanish and native words. As far back as the 13th century, this was a vibrant and colorful trading center. Buenos dias is still the common greeting of the day.

TO READ MORE ON THE ZAMBOANGA PENINSULA AND SULU, CLICK HERE.

OFF TO JOLO

615am, we board SeaAir for Jolo Island in Sulu province. The humidity is so thick at this early morning, you can see the hovering wetness. Arrive Jolo Island at 730am.

Complimentary security was provided by local governments throughout our days of travel in Sulu province.

Today Philippine Marines greet us, and our party loads onto three vans. Though there is mostly peace down here, it is still dangerous ground, especially for Americans and other foreigners.

SUBA ISLAND
Proceed to Jolo Pier. Board a kumpit (boat) owned by the governor of Jolo to Suba Island, and the municipality of Panglima, Tahil where we will visit an early childhood education center and school donated by Consuelo Foundation in 1996 and which has since been turned over to the Dept. of Education.

A security escort boat accompanied us.

SUBA ISLAND in the
Hadji Panglima Tahil area, which is a municipality in the province of Sulu, Philippines. According to the 2000 census, this island municipality has a population of 5,314 people in 807 households.
As of 2000, is was the poorest municipality in the Philippines with a poverty incidence estimate of 89.7%. (Wikipedia)

A photographer's dream, the small island of Suba presents a portrait of quaint beauty and charm. The shallow blue waters are crystal clear; beds of seagrass or seaweed sit in peace, awaiting their harvest.




Greeting us are the children and teachers and parents of Suba.

In Suba, the houses are linked by pathways of wooden boards. At low tide, the poles upon which the houses are built are exposed and waters lap gently. There is no fresh water here; water is brought in by boat and sold at 10 pesos (25 cents) for a two-gallons can.

Here you can see the seaweed growing beneath this platform where the harvested seaweed is drying.

You can see a small boat. No hummers here.

At the Suba Elementary School, the children perform dances and songs for Consuelo's board and staff. Notice the bamboo slats that make up their school house floor. With such a large assembly, it felt precarious to even walk across the floor to get my shots.

Kits of school supplies were handed to the teachers and children. Three dedicated and enthusiastic young teachers receive them with big smiles of gratitude. The principal is a Christian Tausug sympathetic to the Badjaos' situation.

Some board members visit the medical center, while others do home visits.

As we get ready to depart, I notice this sign and take a closer look.

It says that the US and Philippine governments jointly fund a seaweed solor-drying project.

It is one of "dances of hope" in this Mindanao island region to aid and bring development to communities as a way to address problems of population pressures, poverty, poor infrastucture and to bring opportunities for more economic growth. All this to help manage Mindanao's conflicts over the years.

The active peace movement in Sulu and throughout Mindanao reflects the strength of the commitment by civil governments, non-profits and citizens to forge a sustainable peace.

SOME THOUGHTS: In this idyllic village, I commented to someone how blue and clear the waters are. How deceptive! I was told that in these waters of seaweed beds, and with no septic sytem for sewage, human waste mingles with the seaweed. Once harvested and "cleaned" in some kind of process, it is sold to buyers who then fill the demand for seaweed food products beyond Philippine shores. Hmmm.